Friday, 7 August 2026

Manish Malhotra and his Muses: Karisma Kapoor, Raveena Tandon, Sridevi, Shilpa Shetty, Urmila Matondkar and Kareena Kapoor


 

Manish Malhotra and his Muses: Karisma Kapoor, Raveena Tandon, Sridevi, Shilpa Shetty, Urmila Matondkar and Kareena Kapoor

Manish Malhotra revolutionised Bollywood costume design by bridging high fashion and mainstream Indian cinema.

The First Star He Designed For

Manish Malhotra made his entry into film costume design in 1990 styling Juhi Chawla for the film Swarg. That same year, he began styling iconic photo shoots for Sridevi, leading to his full costume design work for her in Gumrah (1993). Sridevi became one of his most cherished muses and a pivotal figure in launching his career in Indian cinema. Sridevi in turn has repeatedly stated in innumerable interviews that apart from being a work colleague and collaborator, she famously named him as her "best friend" in the industry. A title he cherished I'm sure. We have innumerable pics of the two together in the archive. But lets not forget there have been other celebrity collaborations that have worked in his (and the star's) favour. 

Top Muses & Frequent Collaborators

Over three decades, Malhotra has styled generations of leading ladies. From Sridevi onwards, his most frequent collaborators and muses include:

  • Urmila Matondkar: Transformed her screen image in Rangeela (1995), establishing the concept of modern movie styling in Hindi cinema. The colour palette of saris is so mesmerising in Tu maange dil in Aflatoon [an otherwise terrible movie], note how differently he styled Sridevi and Urmila in Judaai

  • Karisma Kapoor: Reimagined her sartorial identity in Raja Hindustani (1996) and Dil To Pagal Hai (1997). 

  • Kajol: Designed her defining looks across classics like Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998), and Fanaa (2006).

  • Kareena Kapoor Khan: One of his closest long-time muses, famously styled as "Poo" in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham... (2001) and in Jab We Met (2007).

  • Rani Mukerji & Preity Zinta: Created signature late-90s and 2000s looks for them in films like Kal Ho Naa Ho (2003) and Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna (2006). Perhaps we should state that his collaborations with Karan Johar ipso facto Johar's leading ladies, get the Malhotra makeover. In many cases he refines the looks, tones it down - competing with the maximalism of over-shimmering Bollywood. 

  • Rekha: Since the unfortunate, untimely passing of Sridevi, Rekha has stepped in and stepped up as the icon in the Manish Malhotra repertoire. Embracing pure Indian aesthetics, traditional jewellery, he's eliminated Rekha's perchance for excess on more than one occasion. His collab with her for Vogue Arabia is one for the ages. 

  • Newer Generation Muses: Continues to frequently style and mentor stars like Alia Bhatt, Janhvi Kapoor, Kiara Advani, and Katrina Kaif on screen, on red carpets, and as fashion showstoppers.

Most Memorable Movies

YearFilmKey Styling Highlights
1995RangeelaEarned him the first Filmfare Award for Costume Design; redefined contemporary Bollywood fashion.
1995Dilwale Dulhania Le JayengeIconic bridal and western ensembles for Kajol.
1997Dil To Pagal HaiTrendsetting athleisure and minimal monochrome ethnic wear.
1998Kuch Kuch Hota HaiDefined 90s pop-culture fashion with sportswear, bandanas, and sleek chiffons.
2001Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham...Opulent high-fashion wardrobe for Kareena Kapoor ("Poo") and traditional couture.
2003Kal Ho Naa HoElegant New York urban wear and the iconic "Maahi Ve" lehenga.
2013Yeh Jawaani Hai DeewaniPopularized Deepika Padukone’s famous royal-blue saree look.

Aishwarya with Sridevi: Rajinikanth's daughter looking up at the icon



Aishwarya Rajinikanth looking up at Sridevi - one of her father, Rajinikanth's most frequent co-stars. When Sridevi was 19 and still working with Rajinikanth, Aishwarya was born, their bond is life-long. 

Sridevi in a Sabya sari... dazzling. Regal. Glorious. Beyond beautiful... 

Designer dream: Sridevi and Neeta Lulla


Celebrity designer Neeta Lulla, "She came across as a very soft-spoken person even then. You couldn't interact much with her as she had a barrier around her. But once she gets comfortable with you, she is fun-loving. Midway through the making of Chandni she told Yashji (Chopra) that she wanted me in. Then she insisted that I do her costumes for Lamhe. Yashji was apprehensive as I had not proved myself yet. She, an established star, had the best designers at her disposal. But she stood by me...."


Anil Kapoor and Sridevi in Lamhe




Sridevi

 

Thursday, 6 August 2026

Sridevi: 90s glam


The glam squad trying something different with Sridevi - there's a behind the scenes story about this shoot in the archive here. 


Sridevi versus Umesh Mehra: The Forgotten Director of Hindi hits and Controversies

Film producer and director Umesh Mehra turns 73 today - he famously fought with Sridevi during and post-production of the Hindi film, Guru [Starring Mithun and Sridevi]. A film that started production in 1987 and released early in 1989, despite it being the biggest hit of the Mithun-Sridevi combo, Sridevi never worked with her notorious co-star or director ever again. 

As the producer/director turns a year old today, a look back at his career. 

Umesh Mehra: A Career of High Peaks, Sharp Turns, and Lasting Curiosity 

Umesh Mehra, born in 1953, remains one of the more intriguing figures of 1980s–90s Bollywood. As the creative force behind Eagle Films, he carved out a niche directing slick entertainers that blended action, glamour, and mass‑friendly storytelling. ie he wasn't one lining up nominations and he wasn't on the awards circuit, but his movies did well. 

His films often reflected the commercial pulse of their time — unapologetically mainstream, star‑driven, and designed for the single‑screen audience. Mehra’s career spanned over two decades, during which he collaborated with some of the biggest names in Hindi cinema, from Rekha to to Jeetendra to Mithun Chakraborty to Akshay Kumar, and delivered several box‑office successes that defined the era’s masala sensibilities. 

He directed Rekha in the thriller Jaal - a personal favourite film that was a massive hit for Rekha, as the film relied solely on her superstar status. She's fantastic in the movie and given several moments to shine - despite her erratic off screen persona in the 1980s, on screen, Rekha delivers gold. Mehra and Akshay Kumar worked in a few hit films, and he directed Sridevi and Mithun in the first blockbuster of 1989, Guru. However, no one involved with the film looks back on that chapter with fond recollections despite being a decade ending hit. 

⭐ The Famous Umesh Mehra–Sridevi Feud

One of the most talked‑about chapters of Mehra’s career was his fallout with superstar Sridevi. Their clash reportedly began during the making of Guru, where creative disagreements escalated into a complete breakdown of communication. Industry insiders long whispered that Mehra felt Sridevi was too demanding and interfered with production decisions, while Sridevi’s camp believed Mehra failed to provide the clarity and professionalism she expected. The rift became so pronounced that the two never worked together again, despite Sridevi’s meteoric rise and Mehra’s continued presence in commercial cinema. Their feud became part of Bollywood folklore - a reminder of how combustible star/director dynamics could be in the pre‑corporate era.

To top it all, in the film Guru, Sridevi objected to a kissing scene with Mithun Chakraborty due to her personal boundaries and the strained relationship with her once close co-star. Initially, she had agreed to the scene, Mehra alleged, but later requested its removal, stating that it went against her comfort level. Despite her objections, the director shot the scene using a body double without her consent, which led to significant turmoil among Sridevi and her family. He claimed the stars did the deed, Sridevi's family counter-claimed it was fake and the scene maligned the image of the actress. They took legal action to remove the scene from the film, highlighting Sridevi's strong stance against on-screen intimacy. It was such an ugly spat that both refused to work with the other despite the massive commercial success of their collaboration.

Eerily enough, Madhuri Dixit worked with Mehra in the Jackie Shroff led film Vardi, and later discussed how uncomfortable she was working in Mehra's movie. After much delay, Guru released on Jan 1, 1989 with Sridevi, Vardi released with Madhuri Dixit that same week - on Jan 6, 1989, and both top actresses never worked with him ever again, rarely bringing up Mehra's name in print. Rekha went on to work with Mehra and the steamy scenes of the song and dance routine In the Night no Control, was so controversial in the 90s that the Censor Board slapped the film with an Adults-only certificate! Yes really! Sex and violence - the film was Mehra's biggest hit, Rekha's biggest hit that decade, and another notch on action Kumar's portfolio.  

In fact, Mehra’s biggest hits include the Mithun Chakraborty–led Ashanti (1982), the thriller Jaal (1986), and his biggest commercial triumphs came with Akshay Kumar; they worked in three films together, back-to-back; International Khiladi (1999), Khiladiyon Ka Khiladi (1996) and Sabse Bada Khiladi (1995). Khiladiyon Ka Khiladi cemented Akshay Kumar’s action‑hero image and is easily Mehra's biggest commercial hit. Most of Mehra's movies showcased his flair for pacing, glamour, and mass appeal. In the 1980s, he had a successful winning formula with Mithun - they worked on 8 films together, and in the 90s, as Mithun's career faded, and young Akshay Kumar came on to the scene,  Mehra worked with Kumar in three films. Even though all their collaborations were successful, Mehra and Kumar never worked together after International Khiladi which released in 1999, a culmination of the Khiladi trifecta. Hit films, but in no measure great films, only the producers and masses were happy. 

Hits and flops aside, the film maker was certainly no darling of the critics and never won a single award as director or producer (apart from a lifetime achievement award handed out in 2021!) in his 25 year career! Spanning from 1978 to 2003, the only time he was on stage was when he was giving away a trophy!  

Mehra’s career saw steep declines, one after another starting with Qila (1998), a critical and commercial disaster that tragically ended up being the great Dilip Kumar's final film. Dilip Kumar did not care for the experience and retired from cinema altogether! When the IP of Khiladi waned, International Khiladi (1999) underperformed, and Yeh Mohabbat Hai (2002) with newcomers tanked, his final film sealed Mehra's fate. The collapse at the box office effectively ended his directorial journey which began in 1979 with Hamare Tumhare.

Little is heard from Mehra now, apart from his stints on TV that are not reliant on opening weekend ticket sales. The pressure of Bollywood is such that you can be a veteran filmmaker of 20-30 years, but all they remember is your last flop, a history of hits quickly forgotten. 

Bollywood is not for the weak; the weak of heart or weak of wallet. 

Now mostly retired, we see glimpses of Umesh Mehra on social media. He recently posted photos of himself with Sridevi and clearly has let the dust settle. I believe the two eventually settled out of court and the offending scenes were removed from Guru so the film could release. The producers obviously prefer to remember how much money they made, not the bump on the road. 

Mehra can today reflect on his legacy as a successful film maker whose career ups and downs reflect the changing tides and times of Bollywood. He went with the flow - and when the flow stopped, so did he.

Sridevi and Anil Kapoor in Lamhe

Lamhe

The first piano prelude to Kabhi main kahun just transports us back to the early 90s... Magical Lamhe. A forever favourite of the NRI diaspora. 
 

Behind the scenes of Lamhe